Showing posts with label TechTalk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label TechTalk. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Zen and the Art of Strong Stereo Imaging | Audio Issues

This is a guest post from mastering engineer Barry Gardner who operates SafeandSound online mastering
From time to time I hear a mix that has dubious stereo imaging.  This can affect both acoustic or electronic mixes.
For acoustic mixes it is often the mic technique that creates problematic stereo images. For electronic mixes, there are a variety of reasons why bad stereo imaging occurs.
By dubious I mean the stereo image does not have the traits of a professional mix-down. It may be too narrow with many monophonic sources or it might be too wide sounding with possible phase problems, e.g. not mono compatible. This can be due to over use of stereo width enhancers or it may suffer from blanket application of effects across multiple mix tracks.

Make Sure It Works in Mono

When you mix your track it is important to mono the track and make sure that the track does not sound excessively different in mono.
It should maintain a similar tonal balance in mono with some sources even sounding slightly louder. If you have a serious phase issue for any sources they will tend to lose bass or drop significantly in level when summed in mono. At worst, they’ll vanish from the mix entirely. So make it a habit to check your mix in mono as it builds.
In some instances there may be a single stereo source that is out of phase between the channels and goes unnoticed. We all want to have wide, punchy sounding mixes and this can be a challenge for the beginning engineer.
After all, there are many technical aspects to learn when you’re first starting out. One common issue I have found is the application of a single effect across multiple mix tracks. Reverb is the most common stereo enhancing effect in people’s mixes. I would like to take the stereo image aspect of mixing back to the starting point and look at the sound selection. (drum hits, samples, synths, vocals, effect sweeps and other elements that make up your music)
In many instances people tend to start their track by picking sources that they like the sound of. There’s nothing inherently wrong with this, it’s what we all do. However, it is worth introducing another layer of selectivity when you choose your sound sources.

Stereo for the Electronic Musician

For electronic musicians it is important to understand whether your source samples and sounds are monophonic or stereo. If they are mono they will have exactly the same information in the left and right channels and if they are stereo they will have a sense of space.
If you are unsure. try mono-ing some sources in your DAW and see if the stereo image changes. If there is no change then the source is mono but if the source loses some depth and space then it is highly likely to be stereo.
The reason I suggest this is so that from the outset you will be building an appropriate stereo perspective into your music. Sounds that are commonly stereo (the technically correct term being pseudo-stereo) would be synth patches (pads, leads and some basses), synthetic snare drums, sweeper effects. Sounds that may more commonly be mono may be kick drums and instrumental samples. There is no hard and fast rule so use the mono-ing technique above to find out if the sources are mono or stereo. Doing this results in less problems with phase as you will be avoiding these pseudo-stereo creating techniques.

Avoid the Unnatural

One of the most unpleasant techniques some people use to artificially enhance the stereo imaging is to put a short stereo reverb on all the drums, the synths and bass line which are all from mono source samples. This produces a slight sense of extra depth. However it also produces an unnatural and unpleasant global coloration to all the sources and has a somewhat “cheap” and subtly metallic sound to the mix. So from the outset, pay attention to your choice of sounds when you are building the track.
If you want to create a pseudo stereo image for a specific mono source, you can use a few different techniques. In fact adding a little reverb is perfectly OK, but limit it to one sound source and don’t apply the same reverb to every single source you have.
  • You may wish to double up the mono source on 2 channels, pan hard left and right and delay one side by a few milliseconds. (always double checking mono compatibility by mono summing or checking on a correlation meter)
  • You can add a subtle stereo based delay to a sound which can widen the sound (often a subtle ping pong with hard left panned delays can do the trick).
  • Another technique is to double 2 mono sources panned hard left and right and apply two separate digital graphic EQ plug-ins. Create opposing EQ boosts and cuts to each signal so they don’t have the same sounds. At any given frequency the left channel gets a boost and the right gets a cut through all the available bands.
Stereo imaging enhancers rely on already available stereo information in a source. By all means use them sparingly to assist width creation but be aware in over-use since mono compatibility may fail. All these enhancements can be used with care and in moderation with actual stereo sources to give a deeper and wider mix sound. Also, do not be afraid to leave a mono source strictly mono as it all adds to fill the stereo image in a natural way.

Know Your Sources

As well as sources that are very narrow it is worth being vigilant towards overly wide sources.
For example, many factory synth patches are created to sound big wide and lush. In some instances this is overdone and when summed to mono they can sound very different. In such instances, knowing how to program your favorite synthesizer comes in handy.
When these techniques are applied with care and respect to mono compatibility, they should produce a fuller, stable, mono compatible and more euphonic stereo image for your mixes.
None of these pseudo stereo image enhancing techniques replace good source selection but they can help with adding some subtle and extra width to a mix-down that is otherwise lacking stereo imaging.
It is highly recommended that all experiments are checked for mono compatibility either through mono summing your stereo bus or checking on a freeware phase scope like “Flux stereo tool” or “Voxengo Span”. Selecting from a wide palette of sound sources helps bring a natural depth and separation to your mix-down.
Image by: pittaya


Zen and the Art of Strong Stereo Imaging | Audio Issues
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Friday, March 2, 2012

Understanding what does RMS stands for in Audio


OK so you have encountered a lot about “RMS” in audio recording, mixing and mastering. You might have read it many times in different tutorials featured in this blog or in recording forums. So what is really RMS?
RMS is Root Mean Square

It is assumed you are not a mathematician or have strong engineering knowledge so let’s explain this term in the easiest way. RMS stands for Root mean square. Do not confuse with those squares or means; the easiest way to understand RMS is simply it’s just an unique way of finding out the “average”.

Why not simply use the word “average” instead of “RMS”? Well, technically RMS is used to characterize the “average” of continuous varying signals such as audio, electrical signals, sound, etc.

Like any properties of a continuous signal such as audio or electrical signals. It can be characterized as having a maximum, minimum and average. In audio waveforms, these maximum is often called “peak” signal and often measured in dB in digital. In digital audio, the maximum allowable is 0dB. If it exceeds that amount, distortion would occur.

Between the minimum (the quietest sections of the audio) and the loudest section (towards 0dBFS, the peak) is where the RMS value can be found. It would be depicted on the screenshot below:

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Understanding what does RMS stands for in Audio
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Modulation Effects Explained - revolutionaudio.blogspot.com

Modulation Effects Explained
Modulation effects are a great way to create movement within a mix. This article will explain the different types of modulation effects available for mixing.



Tremolo
Vibrato
Flanging
Phase Shifting or Phasing
Chorus


All of these effects are built around a Low Frequency Oscillator more commonly referred to as just an LFO. An LFO is an audio signal usually less than 20Hz that creates a pulsating rhythm rather than an audible tone. These are used for manipulate synthesizer tones, and as you will see, to create various modulation effects. All the effects listed use Sine wave as the waveshape for the LFO.




Tremolo is an effect where the LFO is modulating the volume of a signal. The signal attenuation amount is controlled by the depth and the rate adjusts the speed of the LFO cycles.
Listen to an example of Tremolo


Vibrato is an effect where the LFO is modulating the pitch of a signal. This is accomplished by delaying the incoming sound and changing the delay time continually. The effect usually not mixed in with the dry signal. The depth control adjusts the maximum delay time, and rate controls the lfo cycle.
Listen to an example of Vibrato


Flanging is created by mixing a signal with a slightly delayed copy of itself, where the length of the delay is constantly changing. Historically this was accomplished by recording the same sound to two tape machines, playing them back at the same time while pushing down lightly on one of the reels, slowing down one side. The edge of a reel of tape is called the flange, hence the name of the effect.
Today the same effect is accomplished in a much less mechanical way. Essentially the signal is split, one part gets delayed and a low frequency oscillator keeps the delay time constantly changing from 1-10ms. Combining the delayed signal with the original signal results in comb filtering, notches in the frequency spectrum where the signal is out of phase.
A flanger will usually have depth and rate controls. The depth adjusts how much of the delayed signal is added to the original, and the rate controls how fast it will change.
Listen to an example of Flanging


Phase shifting or phasing is a similar effect to flanging, but is accomplished in a much different way. Phasers split the signal, one part goes through an allpass filter then into an LFO then recombined with the original sound. An allpass filter lets all frequencies through without attenuation, but inverts the phase of various frequencies. It actually is delaying the signal, but not all of it at the same time. This time the LFO changes which frequencies are effected.
Phase shifters have 2 main parameters, Sweep Depth: how far the notches sweep up and down the frequency range. Speed/Rate: how many times the notches are swept up and down per second.
Listen to an example of Phasing


Chorus is created in nearly the same way as flanging, the main difference is that chorus uses a longer delay time, somewhere between 20-30ms compared to flanging which is 1-10ms. It doesn’t have the same sort of sweeping characteristic that flanging has, instead is effects the pitch. Again the LFO is controlling the delay time. The depth control affects how much the total delay time changes over time. Changing the delay time up and down results in slight pitch shifting.
Listen to an example of Chorus


You may have noticed that the majority of effects here involve delay. It's possible to recreate most of the effects by using a digital delay with rate and depth controls, such as the ModDelay2 included with Pro Tools.


Modulation Effects Explained
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Sunday, February 19, 2012

Pan vs Balance vs Mono vs Stereo

(True) Panning
true panning would be if you actually took the audio signal from one side and really did move it over to the other side ...

Balance
is when you adjust, raise or lowwer volume levels on the left side or right side of a two channel track. your not moving anything around your just raising or lowering volume of one side or the other of that track.

what is a MONO track
its actually a two channel track that has the exact same audio signal on its left side channel as it has on its right side channel. since both left and right side are identicle(clones of each other) the overall sound is therefore mono. You cant tell that there are two channels, since they both sound Identical it sounds like just one mono signal(but its really two ).

what is a STEREO track
like the mono track above a stereo track also has two audio channels, But the big difference is that the channels on a stereo track each carry a different audio signal. They are not two identical audio signals like the mono track has. In a stereo track the right side audio signal is a different signal than the left side audio signal, so the sound that you hear in this situation is refered to as stereo sound.

Panning vs Balance vs Mono....(panning a mono signal)
almost all panning that we do is done using volume manipulation to give the illusion that the audio sound is moving from one side to the other, its not really (true) panning since nothing is really being moved at all.
All that is done in most panning is that a two channel MONO track is being manipulated using a volume balance, to raise and lower the volume of one side or the other so that it sounds like the mono signal is moving form one side to the other, but its not moving at all, we just percieve it as movement when we hear this volume manipulation happening to a mono track.
Therefore because you need two identical audio channels to be on the track all panning we do is done using a two channel MONO track...its basically using a form of Balence control to create the illusion of moving or Panning the mono signal form one side to the other.

(True) Panning vs Panning vs Stereo....(panning a stereo signal)
If you wanted to actually move the audio signal from the left side of a stereo two channel track over to the right side of that stereo two channel track. you could not do this with just normal panning that uses volume manipulation. The panning that acts like a Balance and uses volume manipulation to simulate movement on a mono track wont work the same way for a stereo track that has two different audio signals on each channel. This type of panning that uses volume manipulation will not create the illusion of movement or panning when used on a stereo track, it will only act like a volume balance and just shut off the volume of one of your channels and not move that channel at all..
So what you need in this case is something or a way to do (TRUE)Panning, to actually be able to move the audio signal on one channel of a stereo track over to the other channel of that stereo track. And since most recording software programs only use mono type panning the manipulation of volume levels to simulate movement/panning of a mono signal you will have to probably look outside for add on programs or vst programs or pluggin programs to help you acomplish (TRUE)Panning on your stereo two channel track........( I call it TRUE panning for lack of a better word, probably just referring to it as stereo panning would suffice)

Stereo Panning.......(the old school way )
there is a way to (True)pan a pair of stereo audio signals using just your recording software as it is. To do this you need to have your stereo audio signals separated, and have each one sent to its very own separate track. That way each of those signals can then be treated as a MONO signal in its very own two channel mono track. So now that you have one of the signals as a mono signal in its own track you can use the normal Pan thats in your recording software program (the volume manipulation type pan fader that behaves like a balace) to pan it just like you would any other mono signal in the usual way. you do the same to the other half of the original stereo signal and you end up with two separate tracks that each have their own pan fader, now you can use those two pan faders to start moving and position (panning) each of those two signals that came from the original stereo source.

Tip - You could have recorded your original stereo source onto two separate mono tracks right from the beginning, or if you had originally recorded your stereo source onto just one two channel track as a stereo track, then you can use your recording softwares features to separate that track into two separate mono tracks, one that has one signal form your stereo source and the other that has the other signal from your stereo source.....

Just remember all tracks have two channels that you can record audio signals onto, if you record two Identical audio signals onto a tracks two channels then that track is what most of us call a mono track. But if you record two Different audio signals onto to the two channels of a track then that track will be what most of us refer to as a stereo track...so all tracks have two channels...(thanks Till)

(I think that about sums up the difference between Balance and Pan in very basic genneral terms...as far as i understand it anyway)

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By suprosuperman via Cockos Reaper Forum

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Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Harnessing The Power Of Digital Signal Processing - Pro Sound Web

AV: Harnessing The Power Of Digital Signal Processing - Pro Sound Web


In the previous segment, we looked at the basic process of using a high-resolution FFT (Fast Fourier Transform) analyzer to view the frequency and phase response of a 12-inch cone driver in a typical 12-inch/2-way loudspeaker.

In that segment, we established that the 30-degree off-axis response of the cone driver is substantially lower in level (12 to 18 dB), as well as highly irregular in phase and frequency above approximately 2 kHz, when compared to the driver’s on-axis response (Figure 1).

This information allows us make an educated guess at the range where the cone driver should be crossed over.

In this particular case, the 30-degree off-axis response is linear up until about 1.28 kHz, after which the output until about 2 kHz. At 2.1 kHz, the output level begins to descend rapidly as the driver enters its breakup mode (see sidebar for discussion of “breakup mode”).

Therefore, the optimal crossover could be as low as 300 to 500 Hz (for loudspeakers that employ a mid-range driver) to as high as perhaps 1.3 kHz, while still maintaining a 60-degree angle of vertical dispersion.

However, if the 12-inch cone is to be mated with a 90-degree (or wider) HF horn and driver, approximately 1 kHz should be the upper limit, as the off-axis response at 45 degrees will be much worse than at 30 degrees. Further, if the cone driver were to be 15-inch in diameter rather than 12-inch, as is common in many 2-way loudspeakers, its off-axis response will become irregular at even lower frequencies than the 12-inch cone driver, due to the larger diameter of the cone.
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Sunday, February 5, 2012

The War on Hum

The War on Hum


The "war on hum" is a battle every home studio has to wage. I have been battling it since I started recording, sometimes winning, sometimes losing. Currently, I am winning the war. The more gear you have, the more likely you are to encounter hum. Like it or not, it's a war you have to fight. Fortunately, observing a few simple practices can fix many situations.

This is deliberately a non technical article. You probably don't want a lecture on the nature of ground loops and electrical systems. So I won't get too deep into it, but I will link you to some excellent sources of material at the end.

Most of the time, the hum is due two two or more paths to the house ground Basically, the hum you hear is typically a bass tone at 60Hz (or 50Hz, if you are across the pond), along with its harmonics at higher frequencies, which may sound like a buzz. Because this hum and buzz creates noise throughout the audio spectrum, its almost impossible to filter it out without totally wrecking the audio signal. Causes can be many. Ground loop hum, may be caused by different electrical pathways to the house ground, TV cable lines, bad or shorted audio cables, old equipment with damaged power supplies, equipment with poor or broken internal grounds, and cables that travel near magnetic fields. There are plenty of other sources of noise too--electric motors, radio stations, even your neighbor using power tools. In some cases, the electricity supplied by the power company may be erratic. Like it or not, your studio is connected by wires to nearly everyone on the continent.

1. Make sure your audio gear and all devices that connect to audio gear are on the same house circuit, observing the specified limits of the circuit. That is your audio interface, monitors, mixer, and gear connected to the mixer. Trouble shoot your house circuit breaker so you know which switches go to which outlets in your house and most importantly, your studio. You want all the gear to use the same path to ground.
each one of these leads to a circuit breaker.Before you touch your home's electrical equipment, Beware! Messing with electricity can be dangerous, even fatal. If you don't know what you are doing, don't do it.

While this is not a magic formula to cure all ground loops, it can get rid of many preventable ones.

2. Use balanced gear with balanced TRS and XLR cables. If you have to use unbalanced gear, keep the cables short, under 10 feet if possible. Long RCA and TS (two wire) cables are highly susceptible to picking up hum. For those of you using mixers, this is really important. One poorly grounded device or poorly situated unbalanced cable can infect the whole mixer with hum. Those with a lot of vintage synths (which are nearly always unbalanced) will certainly run into this problem. I've had real good luck with Behringer direct boxes plugged into and powered by the board's mic preamps. You can input TS line level and output a hefty XLR balanced signal. Touch it up with the gain and you have a clean sounding vintage synth. You can't just use TRS cables and expect your unbalanced gear to be balanced. It does not work that way. You can use a line level shifter to do the job though.

3. Keep audio cables away from wall warts, those power supply adapters that so many pieces of studio gear use. A cable resting on a wall-wart on the floor can pick up hum. Also don't let the AC cables run parallel to audio cables. If they cross, do it at 90 degree angles. This happens because of magnetic fields that form around the power cables and adapter. Electrons don't always stay inside the cable jacket. Don't look now, but are they jumping all over the place in that mess under your desk? Back in my 8 bus mixer days, whenever the hum started to rear its ugly head I would go under the desk and fix the cable paths. Result: Less Hum. It can help significantly.

If you do all the above and you still have hum, it could be that a particular unit is causing the problem. This happens a lot with old gear, whose power supplies may be weakened from years of use. Troubleshoot by disconnecting everything and plugging in items one by one until the culprit reveals itself. Note that for some gear, ground loops can persist even when equipment is not turned on. This is important to know when troubleshooting. You may have to disconnect the power cable from the wall as well as removing audio cables to ensure that a piece is not causing trouble. That piece may need separate treatment if you need to continue using it. I've had good luck with the Ebtech hum eliminator and with direct boxes that have ground lifts.


Hard Questions and Answers
Q) When I pan my synth to the left, its clean. When I pan to the right I get HUM. What is wrong with my mixer?

A) Nearly always that is a cable problem. Swap them to see if the problem is reversed. If it is that confirms it is the cable or the gear connected to the mixer, not the mixer. You then might try connecting the gear with different cables. If the problem continues, it is likely that the problem is in the gear itself.


Q) Here's a really strange problem. When I raise the fader on my mixer, hum disappears! When I lower it, it comes back. WT heck is going on?

A) That's a tough one. You have to go into advanced troubleshooting mode. It's quite possible that the problem is on a different channel than the one you are boosting. Start disconnecting audio cables on other channels. When the problem stops, you have found the villain. Now peek under the desk to see if any cables are touching wall warts. Also check for an impedance mismatch where a +4 output is going into a -10 input.


Q) I hear "digital hash" in my audio. It's not hum, but almost sounds like shortwave radio interference.

A) Here's a cool experiment to make you more aware of magnetic fields. Connect a TS cable to the input of your mixer or audio interface. Turn up the volume. Don't plug in the other end, but use it as a sensor and point it towards each piece of gear. As you get closer to the gear, within 1 inch, you will hear the digital clock signals bleed into your audio, especially when you get near the LCD. That's digital clock noise. Now look for a cable that strayed too close to one of these electronic fields. Many times, if the gear is balanced, using balanced cables will knock this right out.


Q) I put a hum eliminator on the outputs of my mixer but the hum is unchanged! I thought these items always worked!

A) They do work if you know their limitations. First you have to find the device causing the ground loop and put the hum eliminator on that device. You can't use it "downstream" as hum has already become part of the audio signal earlier in the chain. You must apply the hum eliminator to the source of the problem, before the ground loop becomes a hum problem.


Q) When I connect the audio outs from my TV cable box to my audio interface it hums so bad I can barely hear the program.

A) Common problem. The TV cable itself may use a different ground path than your studio equipment, especially if you have a lot of TVs in the house. For me, a Hum Eliminator completely fixes the problem.



Q) What types of rigs are best for avoiding issues with hum?

A) Avoid cheap unbalanced mixers. Those with large mixers and a lot of gear know that ground loop hygiene is crucial to keeping the board hum free. Those folks have to be especially vigilant to win the war. Going mixerless can help. Plugging direct into an audio interface gets rid of a lot of cables, and as we have seen, cables can cause problems. Don't plug in gear that you know is problematic. Instead, connect it only when you want to record it, and run through helper devices like noise gates and the ones mentioned earlier in the article. Audio interfaces like the Tascam FW1884 and Project Mix can help because they incorporate what would be several separate pieces into one box with one ground. I'd also avoid using cheap laptops for audio. We have had several problems documented at studio-central where ground loops could not be corrected. Likewise, adapting an audio chain to an unbalanced 1/8" stereo line input is just begging for trouble.


Q) Does one ever actually win the war? Can you truly ever totally eliminate ground loop hum in a home studio?

A) Technically, the answer is a matter of degree. The ground differential potential that creates ground loops is always present, but you can succeed in getting rid of its artifact, the hum. The enemy is still there, waiting for you to let your guard down. The way homes send current to ground will always have the potential for ground loops, but with good gear and following a few simple practices, you won't hear it. When you turn up your monitors all the way (without playing anything but with all your gear connected) and all you hear is sweet white hiss, you know you are, for now, winning the war.
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Saturday, January 21, 2012

Sound System Interconnection

Sound System Interconnection
Rane Technical Staff
RaneNote 110 written 1985; last revised 7/11

Cause and prevention of ground loops
Interfacing balanced and unbalanced
Proper pin connections and wiring
Chassis ground vs. signal ground
Ground lift switches

Introduction

This note, originally written in 1985, continues to be one of our most useful references. It's popularity stems from the continual and perpetual difficulty of hooking up audio equipment without suffering through all sorts of bizarre noises, hums, buzzes, whistles, etc.-- not to mention the extreme financial, physical and psychological price. As technology progresses it is inevitable that electronic equipment and its wiring should be subject to constant improvement. Many things have improved in the audio industry since 1985, but unfortunately wiring isn't one of them. However, finally the Audio Engineering Society (AES) has issued a standards document for interconnection of pro audio equipment. It is AES48, titled "AES48-2005: AES standard on interconnections -- Grounding and EMC practices -- Shields of connectors in audio equipment containing active circuitry."

Rane's policy is to accommodate rather than dictate. However, this document contains suggestions for external wiring changes that should ideally only be implemented by trained technical personnel. Safety regulations require that all original grounding means provided from the factory be left intact for safe operation. No guarantee of responsibility for incidental or consequential damages can be provided. (In other words, don't modify cables, or try your own version of grounding unless you really understand exactly what type of output and input you have to connect.)
Ground Loops

Almost all cases of noise can be traced directly to ground loops, grounding or lack thereof. It is important to understand the mechanism that causes grounding noise in order to effectively eliminate it. Each component of a sound system produces its own ground internally. This ground is usually called the audio signal ground. Connecting devices together with the interconnecting cables can tie the signal grounds of the two units together in one place through the conductors in the cable. Ground loops occur when the grounds of the two units are also tied together in another place: via the third wire in the line cord, by tying the metal chassis together through the rack rails, etc. These situations create a circuit through which current may flow in a closed "loop" from one unit's ground out to a second unit and back to the first. It is not simply the presence of this current that creates the hum -- it is when this current flows through a unit's audio signal ground that creates the hum. In fact, even without a ground loop, a little noise current always flows through every interconnecting cable (i.e., it is impossible to eliminate these currents entirely). The mere presence of this ground loop current is no cause for alarm if your system uses properly implemented and completely balanced interconnects, which are excellent at rejecting ground loop and other noise currents. Balanced interconnect was developed to be immune to these noise currents, which can never be entirely eliminated. What makes a ground loop current annoying is when the audio signal is affected. Unfortunately, many manufacturers of balanced audio equipment design the internal grounding system improperly, thus creating balanced equipment that is not immune to the cabling's noise currents. This is one reason for the bad reputation sometimes given to balanced interconnect.

A second reason for balanced interconnect's bad reputation comes from those who think connecting unbalanced equipment into "superior" balanced equipment should improve things. Sorry. Balanced interconnect is not compatible with unbalanced. The small physical nature and short cable runs of completely unbalanced systems (home audio) also contain these ground loop noise currents. However, the currents in unbalanced systems never get large enough to affect the audio to the point where it is a nuisance. Mixing balanced and unbalanced equipment, however, is an entirely different story, since balanced and unbalanced interconnect are truly not compatible. The rest of this note shows several recommended implementations for all of these interconnection schemes.

The potential or voltage which pushes these noise currents through the circuit is developed between the independent grounds of the two or more units in the system. The impedance of this circuit is low, and even though the voltage is low, the current is high, thanks to Mr. Ohm, without whose help we wouldn't have these problems. It would take a very high resolution ohm meter to measure the impedance of the steel chassis or the rack rails. We're talking thousandths of an ohm. So trying to measure this stuff won't necessarily help you. We just thought we'd warn you.

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Sound System Interconnection
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Analog summing boxes for professional audio mixing with digital and analog audio summing boxes mixguides consoles

Older Article but still worth a read!

Strictly Summing

Dec 1, 2004 5:07 PM, By Barry Rudolph

SYSTEMS THAT TAKE YOUR MIX "OUT OF THE BOX"

After amplification, summing and mixing are two of the oldest and most basic audio processes—going back to the early radio broadcast days when the announcer's microphone signal and the record player's output were combined for transmission. Summing and mixing have always been inseparable, interrelated processes: Control the individual signal levels (mix) and then combine and amplify them on a mix bus (sum). While summing and mixing audio signals have always required an audio mixing console, the recent and rapid adoption of digital audio workstations, with integrated digital summing and mixing facilities, has challenged the console's sole dominance—even its continued existence as the centerpiece in a modern recording studio.

While the sonic arguments for and against mixing DAW productions (out of an external analog mixer vs. "mixing inside the box") continue, a new class of products has emerged in the form of small, analog summing-only boxes. Using an external summing unit divides the mixing process into digital mixing within the DAW and external analog summing.

A growing number of proponents of summing their DAW mixes in analog say they're much happier with the overall sound of their mixes. Claims of a "more open, clear and punchier sound" are common, with the main consensus that (given a high-quality summing unit) the mix sounds like it was done on a very expensive Neve, API or SSL analog console. The best of both digital and analog worlds, the rising popularity of this method is self-evident: The DAW's wonderful mix automation, plug-in processing and editing features allow for individual track level adjustments, muting, soloing and effect treatments, while external analog summing frees the DAW's CPU (and ancillary DSP chips) from the processing overhead required to perform internal digital summing.

Another concomitant feature of external analog sum mixing is that the session sample rate is no longer critical when it comes to the final stereo mix master. If you want to leave all of your options open for future release formats (analog 2-track; 44.1, 48, 88.2 or 96 kHz; MO; SACD/DSD; DVD-A; or Blu-Ray) or just don't know what the final delivery format will be, you can work on your project at whatever sample rate you like and wait to output your mixes in whatever form is required. Furthermore, the mix audio, now at +4dB analog line-level, is fully accessible for additional euphonic processing without extra deleterious A/D, D/A or sample-rate conversions.

For the purposes of this article, summing boxes are defined as stand-alone units that accept any number of audio outputs from a DAW's analog I/O and sum, or add, them together to create a stereo mix. For the most part, these summing units do not have individual input level controls, nor do they have effect sends, mute, solo buttons or other controls that would define them as line-level mixers. These are strictly summing blocks. Ideally, a summing unit is an inert box—as sonically transparent as possible and without mixing controls—so that the repeatability of your DAW mix is certain.

Within the DAW program, instead of assigning and mixing all channels (tracks) to the internal digital stereo mixing bus, each track(s) would be assigned to an individual analog output of the system's I/O unit or soundcard. These outputs would connect to the external summing unit's inputs, where they would each be electrically added together to build a stereo mix. In the case of large mixes with many tracks, stem mixing—a rigeur du jour in film and TV production—is used, in which groups of instruments are subgrouped and routed to pairs of stereo I/O outputs, although there are no technical reasons why a 72-channel or bigger summing box could not be used for large mixes.

The following are brief descriptions of eight summing units on the market today. Models come in all price ranges and from the simplest to the most elaborate, each with unique feature sets to fit any audio chain and workflow method.

Boutique Audio Inward Connections

Boutique Audio (www.boutiqueaudio.com) has taken over the Inward Connections line. Its summing unit is a 1U rackspace box featuring 16 differential balanced input channels, each with its own panpot. There are eight XLR connectors for the first eight channels and two DB25 connectors for inputs 1 through 16. The stereo bus master control has custom-wound Cinemag transformer outputs and ¼-inch TRS insert points for outboard processing. A front panel switch toggles the inserted processing in/out. All amplifiers are discrete Class-A SPA690 amplifier blocks, and up to three units can be linked together for 48 total DAW channels. Frequency response is 1 Hz to 200 kHz, ±0.5 dB; THD @ 0.002%, 10 Hz to 20 kHz; signal-to-noise at unity gain is -110 dB; IMD is 0.005%; clip point is +26 dBm; and input impedance is over 10M ohms. The unit sells for $3,600 MSRP; a meter bridge is optional.

Dangerous Music 2-Bus

One of the first companies to offer a dedicated summing unit, Dangerous Music (www.dangerousmusic.com) makes two models: the 2-Bus and 2-Bus LT. The 2-Bus LT is a 16x2 summing unit in a single rackspace. The LT takes in eight stereo pairs and automatically routes them to the left and right sides of its stereo bus. Eight mono buttons are provided to sum or "collapse" any individual pair down to mono—equally to the left and right buses. This convenient feature is for "forcing" normally center-panned audio tracks like kick and snare drums—coming in from DAW outputs 1 and 2—to the center of the mix.

Connecting the LT to your DAW is easy by using DB25 connector cables wired in standard Tascam DA-88 pin-out. The LT also has a pair of rear panel XLR jacks for linking multiple units for more than 16 inputs or for external stereo effect returns such as reverb to the LT's master bus. Full +4dBm XLR stereo output connectors are also provided to feed a monitor unit (such as the Dangerous Monitor) or your existing console's monitoring section. A second pair of +4dBm outputs feed your analog stereo mixdown machine. MSRP is $1,500.

The Dangerous Music 2-Bus is a two-rackspace unit with all of the features of the LT but with slightly better performance specs and 16 separate XLR input connectors instead of two DB25 connectors. The XLR connectors make wiring up a normalled input patchbay for 16 insert effect paths an easy task. There are also +6dB boost buttons for each stereo stem to "jump" the level up of any stereo pair(s) over others when needed. Options include a stereo insert loop path on the output for outboard processing and the replacement of the +6 buttons with simple mute buttons. Frequency response is 1 Hz to 100 kHz, ±0.2 dB; THD is 0.005% in the audio band; IMD is measured at 0.005% IMD60 4:1; noise floor is at -81dBu total energy in the audio band; and max output level is +26 dBu.

The 2-Bus features a premium, stepped stereo output attenuator custom-made by NASA-supplier Janco Corp. for completely repeatable stereo bus level setting. The stereo output bus has a 10dB range adjustable in 0.5dB steps. All of the Dangerous gear features Burr-Brown op amps and hermetically sealed Arrowmat relays with silver contacts to switch audio. The 2-Bus sells for $2,999 MSRP.

InnerTUBE Audio Sumthang

InnerTUBE Audio (www.innertubeaudio.com) offers Sumthang, a tube-based 8-input stereo summing box that features custom-wound, nickel-core, transformer-balanced inputs and outputs; dual Sifam VU output meters; a stereo output volume control (or optional stepped attenuator); and the ability to cascade multiple units to handle additional input channels. Optional 8- and 16-channel expander units run from a single external power supply. It's interesting to note that like all of InnerTUBE's product line, Sumthang uses only octal tubes (8-pin tubes with ceramic, bakelite or phenolic bases holding the glass tube itself; in this case, two 12SL7s and two 12V6s), which is said to be better-sounding than glass-only tubes. List price is $2,500.

Nautilus Commander

The Commander from Nautilus Master Technology (www.nautiluspro.com) is a discrete Class-A design that sums 12 channels to stereo. Mastering-style stereo bus functions include a four-way assignable stereo insert for external analog mix bus processing, separate L/R mutes, a Mono button, VU meters and meter range control. Stretching our survey's definition between a simple summing unit and a line-level mixer, it has eight analog XLR/TRS inputs with pan and mute controls. There are also two dedicated stereo pair inputs that can be used for effects returns or for expanding up to 36 total channels with the upcoming Commander expansion units.

A unique feature is the ability to switch from the 12-channel summing section to an auxiliary stereo source for A/B comparison with previously recorded mixes or other CD/SACD stereo references. The separate level controls for each stereo source ensure accurate and true sonic comparisons. The Commander has two RMS VU meters that make good adjuncts to your DAW's level meters. Like Boutique Audio's unit, the Commander uses discrete, Class-A SPA690 amplifier blocks throughout. List is $3,995.

Roll Music RMS216 Folcrom

Closest to the "Ideal and inert" summing box, the Roll Music (www.rollmusic.com) RMS216 Folcrom is the simplest unit in this survey. It requires no power supply and is essentially a passive-resistive summation circuit housed in a single-space 1U box and without internal amplifiers. Audio undergoes no additional processing or coloration but loses about 30 to 40 dB of level, which must be "made up"—restored to a proper +4dBm line-level. Roll Music recommends using a good-quality microphone stereo preamplifier for this—a piece of gear that usually goes unused during mixdowns. In effect, Folcrom allows you to sculpt your mix's overall sound through your choice and setup of this mic pre—be it an old-style tube model or a very pristine transformerless modern unit.

Folcrom's 16 input channels take fully balanced lines coming from your DAW over two standard 8-channel DB25 cables and connectors. The front panel has a row of pushbutton switches to assign each channel to the left, right or center (or none) of the stereo mix bus. The output of the Folcrom comes out of a stereo pair of balanced XLR connectors on the rear panel. Specs include a max input level of +42 dBv (at which point, the resistors start to heat up); output impedance is 150 ohms balanced, recommended load impedance is 1,300 ohms and output level will be -35 dB nominal; frequency response is 0 to 500 kHz, while crosstalk at 1 kHz is -90 dB. MSRP is $795.

SPL Mix Dream

SPL's (www.spl-usa.com) MixDream Model 2384 is a 16×2 analog summing/mixer unit in a 2U cabinet and is the most elaborately featured summing system in this survey. The Class-A amplifiers, running on a ±30-volt supply, promise loads of headroom with a -97dBu (A-weighted, all channels active) noise floor and a dynamic range of more than 125 dB.

There are 16 relay-controlled (I/O bypass) balanced inserts for using analog effects on the individual channels. Multiple MixDreams can be linked together for more inputs or for 6-channel surround sound applications. Other features include a built-in adjustable peak limiter, stereo expansion control, master inserts and switchable output transformers from Lundahl, proprietary differential amplifiers for each input and a discrete, low-noise power supply. MSRP is $3,795.

Tube-Tech SSA 2A

The Tube-Tech (www.tube-tech.com) SSA 2A Stereo Summing Amplifier uses eight tubes and is powered by a solid-state power supply. The SSA 2A performs summing of up to eight stereo pairs of input channels down to a single stereo output. The unit also has four mono inputs ready for hard-center–panned tracks such as kick, snare, bass and lead vocals. The two-rackspace unit has a 23-step gold-plated output attenuator with a master gain control range of -10 dB to +10 dB and features two large, lighted VU meters.

Expandable to 16 stereo inputs, the SSA 2A's electronically balanced inputs can handle super-hot levels up to +30 dBU—more than any available DAW I/O can output. Maximum output level is +26 dBU for less than 1% THD+N @ 40 Hz (distortion is more typically <0.01%), and frequency response is rated at -3 dB for 5 Hz to 50 kHz. The fully balanced output section uses a floating transformer with static screen. At $3,895 MSRP, the SSA 2A is for anyone interested in summing their DAW mixes using tubes only. Analog summing boxes for professional audio mixing with digital and analog audio summing boxes mixguides consoles
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Friday, January 20, 2012

AV: How Do You Set System Gain Structure? - Pro Sound Web

How Do You Set System Gain Structure?
Gain structuring for a system occurs in the signal processing chain between the mixer or another signal source and the power amplifiers.

June 07, 2011, by Chuck McGregor

gain structure

Realistically, audio signals at or near the noise floor of a system are not useful because the signal will not be significantly louder than the noise.

Therefore, some minimum usable level must be assumed below which the electronic noise is considered objectionable.

A signal to noise ratio of 20 dB is considered minimally acceptable for good intelligibility.

For a high quality system 30 dB would be a better figure to use. Using this value, the range from this minimum signal level (30 dB above the noise floor) to the clipping level is the usable signal range window for the system (also called the dynamic range in my way of thinking).

However, for purposes of this paper, the maximum output to noise floor is used as the dynamic range.

Every audio system with more than one electronic component has a “system gain structure”. Gain structuring for a system occurs in the signal processing chain between the mixer or another signal source and the power amplifiers.

One usual scenario is to set all the signal processors to unity gain and turn the amplifier inputs to maximum. Unfortunately as you will see, given the different maximum outputs and noise levels of typical signal processors, this method will may not come close to the best gain structure.

We will be dealing with the signal voltage levels on the interconnecting cables from the output of the mixer (or signal source if there is no mixer) up to the input of the amplifier. For the convenience of using simple numbers, this analysis uses relative dB, as a voltage ratio where dB = 20 x log (V1/V2), and dBu, where 0 dBu = 0.775V. V1 and V2 are simply two voltages.

To set proper gain structure, the interconnections between devices must be constant voltage interfaces. This means an output device’s voltage at any point in time is unaffected by whether or not it is connected to the device(s) it is driving.

This type of interface is characterized by the output impedance of a device being 1/10 or less of its load. For example, if the output impedance is 100 Ohms, the total load it drives must be 1000 Ohms or greater. Virtually all professional audio equipment meets this criterion when a single device drives only one other device.

However when one device drives multiple devices, such as a mixer feeding a number of power amplifiers, this may not be true. In this case a distribution amplifier may be needed to divide the load between its multiple outputs.

The last thing to consider is the power handling of the loudspeaker(s).

As long as the amplifier does not exceed the loudspeaker’s power handling capability and the system is operated without clipping, you should never blow a properly manufactured loudspeaker.

The safest criteria to use in selecting an amplifier is the RMS rating of the loudspeaker.

In reality, most loudspeakers can handle peak signals in excess of this rating.

A reasonable choice is an amplifier whose rating that is 2 times (+3 dB) the RMS rating of the loudspeaker. The RMS sine wave used to rate amplifiers has an inherent peak power component of 3 dB.

So this all works out to a 6 dB allowance for power peaks over the loudspeaker’s RMS rating. This is a pretty safe figure for the way most professional loudspeakers are rated (pink noise with a 6 dB peak factor) and given the peak to RMS content of most audio signals.

However, sustained sine wave signals from the likes of a synthesizer could exceed the loudspeakers RMS capability by 3 dB without clipping the system. If you expect these kinds of signals and you expect to drive the system to maximum output levels with them, use the loudspeaker’s RMS rating as the power rating for the amplifier.

With these basics in mind, we’re ready to examine how to achieve proper gain structure in detail.

Picturing Gain Structure
Before you get out your equipment and start setting gain structure you have to learn just what it is you are trying to accomplish. Go through the following “on paper” analysis of a typical system. After you understand this can you appreciate where to actually set the controls on equipment to achieve optimum gain structure.

Figure 1 shows a simple system consisting of six pieces of equipment. The device clip level (maximum output) is listed for each device as published by the manufacturer. For this example, all devices between the mixer output and the amplifier input are set for unity gain and the amplifier input is set for maximum sensitivity.

Each device is represented by what looks like a bar. Rather than a bar, picture it as a tall, narrow window. The maximum output or clipping point from the specifications for each device defines the top of the window using the absolute dBu scale on the right.

The published noise floor (or signal-to-noise ratio) specification below maximum output determines the height of the window. The relative dB scale on the left is used to determine this height. All usable signals must pass between the top and bottom of the window.

However, remember that your low level signals won’t be near the noise floor. Realistically the minimum usable signal is one that is at least 30 dB above the noise floor.
[Click to enlarge]
Figure 1

Next, a horizontal line is drawn across the top of the lowest window (in this case the amplifier).

This is the system clip level, and for the rest of the analysis this line stays in the same place.

Another line is drawn across the highest bottom window sill (in this case the mixer).

The relative dB scale is used to measure the distance in dB between the 1st and 2nd lines. As you can see, it is only 72 dB for this set of devices and gain structure.

That’s equal to the performance of your average consumer cassette deck—and you thought that professional equipment automatically guaranteed a professional grade audio system. Oh well, live and learn!

Now subtract 30 dB to find the “true” dynamic range (30 dB above the noise floor to the clipping level). The result is 42 dB.

Measurements of the maximum dynamic ranges for acoustic instruments and voice yield maximum figures in excess of 40 dB.

This means our system really doesn’t have enough dynamic range to reproduce them.

The Most Common Approach To Gain Structure
As seen in Figure 1 from the absolute scale on the right, the amplifier input sensitivity limits the maximum signal level in all the other devices to +3 dB. Above +3 dB the amplifier will clip—period. It doesn’t matter how much “headroom” is in the mixer, you can’t use it without distorting the amplifier.

Well, you say, the obvious step is to put a pad (usually the amplifier input attenuator) so the amplifier will clip at about the same point as the next least capable device. In this case it is the notch filter. Using a -12 dB pad, the notch filter and amplifier will both clip at once and the signal level will be 12 dB higher through the other devices at the amplifier’s maximum output.

The chart, as seen in Figure 2, was changed from Figure 1 by moving all the device windows (except the amplifier) down by 12 dB using the relative dB scale on the left. A +15 dB signal (the notch filter clip level) is now attenuated to +3 dB by the amplifier’s input attenuator.
[Click to enlarge]
Figure 2

The noise floor line is redrawn through the highest window sill (in this case still the mixer). Because this ends up 12 dB lower than in Figure 2 relative to the system clip level, we see that the system’s overall window height is now 84 dB. This is a 12 dB improvement - much better.

Note that the absolute device clip levels no longer relate to the absolute dB scale except for the amplifier’s input after its input attenuator. Our usable signal range (from 30 dB above the noise floor) is 54 dB. This means our system is now able to squeak out enough range to reproduce the dynamic range of instrumental and vocal sources.

Unfortunately, the mixer is still the primary noise source by 3 dB over the signal delay. However, according to their published specifications, the mixer should have some 6 dB better noise performance than the signal delay.

It should also be obvious the signal delay is the weakest dynamic range link because it has the shortest window. Therefore, we must conclude that there is more that can be done to optimize the system’s gain structure.

You Can Make It Better
To optimize the system, pads or gain must be added at the input of each device so that its clipping level and the clipping level of the preceding device occur at the same point. Think of the following procedure as a graphic picture of what would happen to the signal on a volt meter as you work your way through the system.

To create the chart shown in Figure 3, the windows are shifted up and down as needed so that all the tops are lined up on the system clip level line. To do this, start with Figure 1 and work from left to right in signal flow fashion. If you move a window up you need gain between it and the next device. If you move a window down you need a pad.
[Click to enlarge]
Figure 3

First, move the mixer window down so its top is even with the graphic EQ window. This movement is measured on the relative dB scale, which in this case is -6 dB. Therefore, you need a 6 dB pad at the input of the graphic EQ.

Next, move BOTH the mixer and graphic EQ windows down together so the graphic EQ window is even with the top of the notch filter window. This also turns out to be -6 dB. Therefore, a 6 dB pad is needed between the EQ and notch filter.

Now, move the mixer, graphic EQ and notch filter windows together so the top of the notch filter window is even with the top of the signal delay window. To do this, move ALL the previous devices up 3 dB. This means you need 3 dB of gain between the notch filter and signal delay.

Repeat the process again by moving the windows of the first four devices together so the top of the signal delay window is even with the limiter window. This distance equals 3 dB. This means 3 dB of gain is needed between the signal delay and limiter.

Lastly, you must lower ALL device windows to line up with the input to the amplifier. They are moved the distance between the top of the limiter and the top of the amplifier. In this example the distance is 18 dB. (In the actual system this would usually be done with the amplifier input attenuator.)

After completing all these steps, the tops of the windows end up on the system’s clip level line as shown in Figure 3 (+3 dB on the absolute dB scale). Looking back from inside the amplifier after its input attenuator, all devices appear as though they are clipping at +3 dB. In reality, they are all clipping at their specified device clip levels. If one device is clipping—everything is clipping.

The Results Are Worth It
Measure the distance between the system’s clip level line and the bottom of the shortest window using the left-hand scale. This result is 90 dB which is 18 dB better than the raw system gain structure in Figure 1. The “true” dynamic range, considering a 30 dB above the noise floor signal as the minimum, is now 60 dB.

Also, the primary noise source is now the signal delay. This is the weak link, which agrees exactly with the published specifications for all the devices. It also should be apparent that more of the usable signal window within each device is being used. What a concept.

In some cases, pads or gain will not have any effect on the overall usable signal range. For example, in Figure 3, the 3 dB of gain at the output of the signal delay could be omitted. The 18 dB pad for the amplifier input would become only 15 dB, and the top of the limiter window would end up 3 dB above the system clip level. The key here is that the bottom of its window is still well below the noisiest device (in this case the signal delay).

You can use this reasoning to save yourself the hassle of making up small pads or small amounts of gain. If you omit one of these along the chain you MUST move all the devices preceding it up or down in your chart by the dB of gain or loss that you are omitting. Otherwise, you will not see the effects of the omission on the noise floor.

Background Noise
Now that you have set up proper system gain structure on paper, it is time to hook-up the system and do the same thing for real. Once completed, audibly evaluate the noise floor heard from the speakers. If all is quiet, pack up and go home. If the noise floor is too high, there are two possibilities:

A. The maximum sound level is higher than necessary, which means you over-designed the maximum capability for the system. If this is the case, turn down the amplifier input attenuator. You will lower the noise, and the maximum output level for the system will be reduced by the amount you decide is over-kill.

B. The maximum sound level you can get out of the system IS necessary, which means your system does not have enough usable signal range. You now have three choices; the first two are compromises.

1) Accept the noise and achieve the maximum sound level you need.

2) Turn the amplifier input down to make the noise acceptable. This will, of course, reduce the maximum output level capability for the system. (Sorry, you can’t have it both ways unless you pick choice 3.)

3) Change the primary noise source in the system to something with lower noise performance.

Doing Your Own Analysis
A similar chart for setting up proper system gain can be created for any system.

Using graph paper, make a vertical absolute dB scale from about +30 dB to -120 dB so you can plot increments for 3 dB or less.

The relative dB scale simply uses the same graph increments for plotting and measuring distances in dB. You could also follow this procedure by using some simple math.

If you don’t trust your addition and subtraction, or would rather work with pictures (they are more dramatic and will quickly show errors in your thinking) cut out rectangular paper bars (windows) like those shown in the figures.

The length of each should equal the distance in dB between the device clip level and its noise floor. Be sure to convert noise figures to noise below maximum output.

Write in the clip level for each device on its window. Using these numbers and the absolute dB scale, position the top of each window on the graph paper in signal flow order from left to right. Move these “paper cut-outs” up and down on the chart as outlined above, by measuring the distances using the relative dB scale. You can very quickly determine the necessary pads and gains—probably faster than with a calculator.

A way to check your work is take the maximum output for the first device and subtract the dB for the all the pads and the gain to that number, including the pad before the amplifier. The result should equal the maximum input sensitivity for the amplifier. This calculation should give math mavens an interesting insight into the gain structure process.

Doing It For Real
To actually adjust a system you need to do exactly what you did on paper except you are now doing it for real.

You start from the console output and find out what you need (gain or loss) to adjust its maximum output signal so that it just drives the next device into clipping. And so on.

You don’t need to know the specifications of the equipment. When you go through the system you’ll find out what those specifications are in terms of maximum output levels. As you should have understood by going through the exercise on paper, the noise floors of the equipment will take care of themselves.

Some device (like the signal delay in the above example) will be the weak link. There is nothing you can do to make this better except to replace it with a device with a better maximum output to noise floor window (better signal to noise ratio specification.

Because of production variations and possibly conservative specifications, you may be able to pick up a few more dB of dynamic range by adjusting the pads or gain values you determined on paper. If things are not reasonably close to your on-paper calculations, you have a problem such as bad wiring or a misadjusted or defective device.

What To Adjust
When you set gain in the system, the attenuation or gain needed between devices can be added externally or by using a device’s input level control, if it has one. DO NOT ADJUST THE OUTPUT LEVEL CONTROL ON ANY DEVICE - this should be left at maximum. This is because it is rarely the last thing in the internal circuitry before the output connector. Unlike some input level controls, it usually does NOT adjust actual gain.

Therefore using it will squash the dynamic range in that device’s output stage and you may end up making things worse, even though the signal level is matched up to the next device. Use an output control only if you KNOW ABSOLUTELY that it is a simple attenuator feeding its output connector. The reason it usually is not is that this topology would cause changes in the output impedance when the control is set for anything other than maximum.

Among other things this could would wreak havoc with - guess what - the gain structure. If the device has a noise floor below other devices when you have set the overall gain structure, you can use output gain.

But reduce it only by 3 dB less than the amount between the device’s noise floor and the device that determines the noise floor of the system. This is because if you bring its gain, and hence its noise floor, up to the worst case device its noise will add to the worst case device and give you 3 dB less dynamic range.

The Tools You Need
To find the clip points in a system, you need to use an oscilloscope and a pink noise test signal. There is really no good substitute for this equipment to set gain structure. Sine wave signals are not recommended as they only show one frequency at a time and you can easily miss something.

The pink noise should be full-range (20 Hz - 20 kHz) and have at least a 6 dB peak to average ratio. If you can find one with a 10 dB peak to average ratio, you will more closely simulate real audio signals.

If you must use sine wave signals, you will have to check each and every EQ boost frequency or range of frequencies very carefully.

When measuring electronic crossovers or other frequency response limiting devices, only a full-range pink noise signal will allow you to see full-range signal energy losses easily. (See sections on crossovers and band limited devices.)

If using sine waves you must set the frequency to the center point of each frequency band of the crossover or the center of the band pass for a band limited device.

For simple systems (e.g. no electronic crossover), there is “poor man’s” method where you use a Piezoelectric tweeter and a 400 Hz sine wave to find clip levels.

Basically, you connect the tweeter directly to the output of each device. When the device hits clipping, the tweeter will emit a very noticeable buzzing sound due to the harmonics in the clipped signal.

For high-powered amplifiers, a resistive pad should be used to avoid burning out the tweeter.

This method is detailed more rigorously by Pat Brown of Syn-Aud-Con. You can find this information here.

Doing It
You start the whole procedure by inputting the pink noise test signal into to mixing console. Set it so that it’s output just clips as seen on the oscilloscope.

Make sure it is the output of the mixing console that is clipping. Determine this by reducing the master fader. The clipping should stop. If it doesn’t, you are clipping something before the output fader.

While you’re at this point, note the reading on the output meter. This is a good indication of what the meter will read when you have reached the system’s maximum output after you set its gain structure.

If you are using sine waves this will NOT be a reliable indication.

Once completed, if the system noise levels are low enough, you may want to increase the setting of the amplifier(s) input level control. This will make the mixer more sensitive for operation.

If you reduce the amplifier input level control, something in the front end of the system will clip first. This means the amplifier will not reach full output. But it WILL reproduce that clipped signal and possibly damage the loudspeakers. Either way—if you choose to increase or reduce the amplifier’s input sensitivity from the optimum gain structure setting—you really don’t gain (pun intended) anything.

There is possible exception to this: by reducing the amplifier’s input level control, the output meters on the console will indicate you have reached the system’s maximum output before the amplifier’s clip.

This is useful so that a less than capable mixing engineer will THINK he’s pushing things to the limit but there will still be something left in the amplifiers. This may help protect the loudspeakers but, bear in mind, it will limit the maximum output of the system to something less than it could be.

Note that to reach a system’s maximum output analog Vu meters on mixing consoles may “peg” before the system clips. If you can afford the reduction in dynamic range, operating the system so the meters don’t peg means you’ll never clip the system. Generally, this means you won’t ever blow the loudspeakers assuming the amplifiers are chosen not to exceed the loudspeaker’s maximum ratings.

More Complex Situations
Up to now we’ve looked at a simple systems. Here is where gain structure gets more complicated. However the ideas are exactly the same. You just have to think about what specific pieces of equipment do and/or about more signal paths.

Devices with Gain/Loss and EQs: Parts 1 - 3 assumed devices in the signal chain have no gain (unity gain devices). However, a device may have gain or loss, or you may want to allow for boosts in an EQ, which may be needed to tune the system.

EQ boosts are like adding overall gain to the device. In such cases, as illustrated in Figure 4, input of the device’s window is shifted down below the output of the device’s window. The distance will be the gain in dB for this device or the desirable dB boost you choose for the EQ.

In this case, it is assumed the boosts will be limited to a maximum of 6 dB. Match the top of the window of the preceding device to this line. On the output side you still use the top of the window to match it to the next device.
[Click to enlarge]
Figure 4

When adjusting gain in an actual system, first set up the system with the EQ set to flat. Then make any EQ adjustments.

If all of your EQ is cut only, you can usually leave everything as is. However, if you add ANY EQ boosts, you will then have to redo the gain structure starting from the input to the EQ by finding the new maximum level it can accept without clipping.

This will of course require attenuation at the input to the EQ input. In some instances a device might introduce a loss in signal level.

The procedure is similar except that the output side of the device’s window is shifted to below the input of the device’s window a distance equal to the loss in dB.

Use this new output point to match the device to the top of the window of the following device. In the example it is assumed the limiter threshold is set so the maximum signal through the limiter is 6 dB below its maximum output.

However, on the input side you still use the top of the device’s window for matching to the preceding device’s window. The relative signal level prior to the limiter is 6 dB higher. As shown in Figure 4, everything, including the noise floor is raised 6 dB. The system dynamic range is still determined by the signal delay, because that is still the smallest “window” in the overall picture.

Because the maximum input of the amplifier (after its input attenuator) is still + 3 dB it has remained in the same position throughout

Multiple Signal Paths, Arrays and Delays
Another variation in this procedure is when a system has several branches, such as a mixer feeding multiple sub-systems. You have to separately analyze each branch and include in each analysis the source common to all branches (the mixer in the example Figure 5).

This will automatically optimize the system so that the common source and all the branches clip at once. To do this, the mixer In Figure 5 must feed each branch through a separate pad. Note that the dynamic range is different in each branch.
[Click to enlarge]
Figure 5

To balance the multiple branch systems acoustically in the actual system, you will probably need different operating levels in the branches than what the optimized electronic gain structure provides.

An example would be a central cluster with delayed balcony speakers. To balance operating levels in these instances, use the branch that is lowest in acoustic level as your reference branch (i.e. the one you are itching to turn up because it isn’t loud enough - but don’t touch that dial). Use the input attenuation on the amplifiers for each of the OTHER branches.

This will reduce their output levels and achieve proper acoustic balance with the reference branch. This will also have the effect of lowering the noise levels and reducing the maximum capability of the other branches. In this case, less capability is acceptable because you have determined that the maximum capability can’t be used in these branches unless you drive the reference branch into clipping.

However, if you find, for example, that you have to significantly reduce the maximum output capability of the central cluster so you won’t clip the balcony system, then your balcony system is under-powered. Instead of attenuating the central cluster, you could add gain prior to the balcony system amplifiers (or “unattenuate” the amplifier input).

While this will balance the system, the balcony amplifiers will be driven into clipping before the central cluster amplifiers.

In this situation, the only way you can have your cake and eat it too, is to increase the size of the balcony amplifier, which translates to more voltage (power) capability for the balcony speakers.

You will not spot this problem by analyzing the electronic gain structure.

This could only have been spotted on paper with proper analysis of the acoustic output for each branch based on loudspeaker sensitivities and listening distances.

Electronic Crossovers
Electronic crossovers require special attention. Consider a full-range signal with equal energy per octave (e.g. pink noise). A crossover will divide the total energy of such a signal among two or more frequency bands. This causes an inherent signal loss at each band-limited output, compared to the full-range crossover input signal.

In effect, crossovers are NOT unity gain devices when fed a full-range signal. You can approximate these losses by calculating how much of the total energy is in each frequency band by using the following procedure:

Example: A 3-way crossover with frequency bands of 50 Hz - 125 Hz, 125 Hz - 500 Hz, 500 Hz -10 kHz.

1) Multiply the lowest frequency in each band by 2 until you get to the highest frequency for that band. The number of times you multiplied = the number of octaves. Round off the results for each band to the nearest whole octave [= 1, 2, 4].

2) Add up the total octaves from all bands [= 7].

3) Divide the octaves in each band by the total octaves [= 0.14, 0.29, 0.57]

4) Push the LOG key for each result [= -0.9, -0.6, -0.2].

5) Multiply each result by 10 to find the approximate losses [= -9 dB, -6 dB, -2 dB].

Note the low frequency output is down almost 10 dB. That is why many systems have problems achieving enough drive levels for the subwoofers.

Now you must draw horizontal lines on the output side of the crossover’s window. Draw these lines at a distance below the top of the window equal to the loss in dB for each output as found above. This line for each crossover output is used to match up the crossover window to the top of the window of the device it feeds (usually an amplifier).

In the example, a different pad would be needed for each output (assuming the amplifiers have equal input sensitivities). The top of the window of the device feeding the crossover is still matched to the top of the crossover’s window.

In the actual system, the amplifier input levels are adjusted to acoustically balance the system similarly to a multiple branch system. Use the frequency band that you want to turn up the most - typically the subwoofer (but of course you won’t turn it up - right?) as the reference output. Balance the other bands to it by turning DOWN their amplifier input level controls.

Once you have the system balanced to your acoustical liking, you may find that amplifier input level controls, in particular for horn amplifies, may be set too low for them to reach full output - even with a single frequency sine wave in their pass band. You can increase all the amplifier input level controls by the same amount to get some or all of this unusable capability back for limited frequency range signals.

Keep in mind, however, that this will have two consequences: It will raise the acoustic noise floor of the system and the capability for full-range signals will remain the same. However, some amplifiers will clip before the signal processing in the system.

This is another situation where you must accept a compromise or change amplifier sizes to get a better match in gain and capability between the different frequency bands.

Other Band-Limited Devices
There is a more general case, similar to the crossover scenario.

If you have full-range signals at the input of a device that limits the frequency response—such as with high or low pass filters—there will be an energy loss from its input to output.

Calculate this loss using the same procedure outlined in the previous section on electronic crossovers.

The significant energy of full range music signals effectively spans about 9 octaves (approximately 30 Hz to 15 kHz).

Example: An under balcony system band limited from 150 Hz to 5 kHz.

1) Multiply the lowest frequency limit of the device by 2 until you get to the highest frequency limit for the device. The number of times you multiplied = the number of octaves. Round off the results to the nearest whole octave [= 5].

2) Divide the number of octaves by the 9 full-range octaves [= 0.56].

3) Push the LOG key for this result [= -0.3].

4) Multiply this result by 10 to find the approximate loss [= -3 dB].

Now you must draw a horizontal line on the output side of the device’s window. The line is drawn at a distance below the top of the window equal to the loss in dB as found in #4 above. This line is used to match up the device’s window to the top of the window of the following device.

System Limiting
The purpose of a system limiter in a properly gain structured system is to prevent any signals from exceeding the system’s maximum level. As such, it is used as an “emergency” device meaning it is intended to provide a hard, never-to-exceed maximum output level.

Limiter/compressors with soft-knee thresholds are not as ideal for protection. You really want something that doesn’t do anything up to a certain point then stops any further increase cold in its tracks. Because you need some margin between the device’s maximum input and its limiting threshold they are a bit tricky to implement properly without compromising the system’s dynamic range.

Just as with any other device you must introduce the limiter using its input, output, noise floor specifications, and gain setting just as with any other device in the system. Because of the way they work, the threshold setting is used as the maximum input.

For proper functioning the threshold should be set to at least 3 dB lower than the maximum output signal from the device preceding it. The limiter’s output gain should be used to adjust its maximum output at threshold to about 2 dB below the input level of the device it feeds. This allows a little “margin for error” in the protection.

If you think about it, the only point you can put a limiter in a properly gain structured system that will truly work perfectly is at the output of the signal source. It would be set so that the input level to system would never allow the first device it feeds to clip. This is technically practical if only one signal source is used at a time (i.e. not mixed with others).

Therefore, if you are simply switching between multiple input sources, put your limiting device at the output of the switcher. The system sees one input source and really doesn’t care which one it is and no input signal can drive the system into clipping.

With multiple mixed sources and a properly set system gain structure, the next best place to put the device is at the output of the mixer.

This is because any mixer output voltage at any frequency exceeding the system’s maximum output will clip the system somewhere.

With multiple branch systems you might think to use a limiter on each branch. But with proper gain structure they would either all work at once or compress some part(s) of the system and not others, thus upsetting the acoustic balance.

Thus a single limiter for each main output that is controlled by the operator makes the most sense.

“Controlled by the operator” means outputs such as a separate sub-woofer output where the acoustic balance is actively “mixed” by the operator based on the input signal content.

You should make sure the operator can see when a threshold is exceeded to avoid clipping the mixer.

If the noise floor of the mixer is low enough compared to the other devices in the system you can allow more than the 3 dB margin the mixer has above the limiter’s threshold. You can do this by reducing a pad between the mixer and the limiter. You can also lower the limiter’s threshold level (and increase the output of the limiter by the same amount) if the noise floor of the limiter allows this.

Because it is used as a “hard-line” device, you should set the compression ratio to maximum (10:1 or higher if available). As to any attack and release settings, they do not affect the gain structure. However, as the limiter is intended to function only as an emergency protection device, there is every reason to use the fastest attack and release times. You are not going for sound quality here; you are protecting the system from any overdrive.

So get into and out of protection as fast as possible. If you think sound quality IS important, then you are not thinking correctly. What you should have thought about is a more powerful system that would rarely be pushed into limiting. In other words if the system is constantly pushed into limiting, it is under-designed.

Summary
Gain structure is only a problem because invariably we use equipment with different input/output capabilities and noise floors. There is no easy way to properly set system gain except to analyze each device in relation to the device that feeds it and in relation to the entire signal path.

Fortunately, the little information you need is readily available on equipment specification sheets. By working out proper gain structure on paper before you purchase and wire up the equipment, you can spot potential problems and make appropriate substitutions.

In any case, with the gain properly structured, you can make significant, or in some cases, spectacular improvements in the system’s dynamic range and its noise floor. In the example system, 18 dB is certainly a spectacular improvement.


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AV: How Do You Set System Gain Structure? - Pro Sound Web
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Mixing Myths – Top 10 Countdown | Home Studio Corner

Here are 10 common myths about mixing:
MYTH #10 – “I need big 8-inch monitors and a subwoofer to adequately mix the low end.”

Yes, bigger speakers produce more low frequencies, but that doesn’t mean you NEED them. I’ve never owned anything bigger than a 6-inch speaker, and I know lots of engineers who mix all day long on 5 and 6-inch monitors.
MYTH #9 – “I need to compress every track in the session by default.”

You can substitute the word “compress” with anything. Doing certain things “by default” is lazy. There are tracks I almost always compress, but I … get this … LISTEN to them before slapping on a compressor.

Make sure it actually NEEDS what you’re about to do to it.
MYTH #8 – “I don’t need anyone to critique my mixes.”

What about the client, silly? If your mix makes YOU happy but makes the client (or artist) SAD, then something needs to change.

Ask for critiques. They’re like brussel sprouts — kinda gross and sometimes make you want to hurl, but they’re good for you.
MYTH #7 – “It’s impossible to get good mixes in a home studio.”

Home studios certainly have their challenges, but you can absolutely get great mixes from a home studio.
MYTH #6 – “Good mixes require hours and hours of time.”

When you’re first starting out, this might be true. But the more experience you gain, the faster you should be.

It’s completely reasonable to expect to be able finish a mix in just a couple of hours.
MYTH #5 – “Mixing in mono is old-school and doesn’t apply anymore.”

Listening to your mix in mono is one of the BEST ways to reveal issues in your mix. What may sound like a nice, solid mix might sound muddy when you flip it to mono.

The solution? Leave it in mono and deal with the muddnyess.

I believe one of the main reasons people can’t get their mixes to translate to other systems is that they don’t spend enough time mixing in mono.
MYTH #4 – “If I just had ______________, my mixes would be better.”

What’s in that blank for you? A new interface? Plugin bundle? New studio monitors?

I hate to break it to you, but talent trumps gear every time.

Every. Time.
MYTH #3 – “Deadlines inhibit creativity.”

This one you’ll simply have to try. Have you ever used a timer while you worked on a mix? You may think it keeps you from being able to work effectively.

The truth is it makes you focus on what’s actually important for that mix.

Set a timer and just see how much you can get done in even one hour.
MYTH #2 – “I can learn everything on my own.”

I’ve got so many little techniques that I use when I mix a song…hundreds. Did I figure out some of them on my own? Sure.

But most of them came from simply talking to other engineers or watching them work.

You don’t have to break the mold with your mixes. There are a lot of really talented people out there who use tried and true techniques. Learn from them however you can.
MYTH #1 – “I can just ‘fix it in the mix.’”

I believe it’s programmers who always say “garbage in, garbage out.”

It’s true in mixing, too. If your tracks sound like garbage, your mix will sound like polished garbage.

If your tracks sound amazing, then the mix is already halfway done. Don’t settle for “fixing it in the mix.” That’s not what mixing is for.

Which myth are you guilty of believing? (Hint: I’ve believed ALL of them at some point.)


Mixing Myths – Top 10 Countdown | Home Studio Corner
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Thursday, January 12, 2012

Phantom Power Explained

Phantom Power

and Microphone interconnect basics

From the "ground" up!

© 1999 by Eddie Ciletti for the July issue of EQMagazine

additional updates ©2000, 2004 and 2007

If you’re new to the audio scene, let’s start with a few basic electronic concepts then move on to Microphones and see how all of the connections are made, audio and phantom power.

Before taking the time to understand Phantom Power, let's look at the specs so you have a better understanding of why your mic or direct box might not be working.

Answers to Frequently Asked questions...

The Phantom Power spec is 48 volts dc from a standard 3-pin XLR connector.
Phantom Powered microphones have a wide operating range, from 9vdc to 48 vdc.
Some console / mixer manufacturers take advantage of the above range by not supplying the full 48-volts. They do this because it is easier and cheaper.
Computer microphones that use a mini 1/8-inch (3.5mm) phone plug do require power, but not phantom power. No simple adapter will make these mics work in a pro system.
The power supplied by the computer / sound card to the 1/8-inch (3.5mm) jack not configured to power professional microphones (or powered direct boxes).

AC/DC

What’s that you say? You don’t know your AC from your DC? Audio is considered an Alternating Current, a.k.a. "AC." (So is 120-volt "wall" power.) But electronic circuits need Direct Current (DC) to turn them on, from batteries or power supplies. Like a speaker in reverse, a dynamic mic consists of a coil of wire suspended in a magnetic field. When vibrations move the cone or "diaphragm," the energy stored in the magnet is transferred to the wires. (A Dynamic mic is passive and needs no power.)

A DEDICATED SUPPLY
The preamplifier inside Vacuum Tube microphones requires both plate and filament voltages. Power and audio are delivered via special, multi-conductor cables and non-standard connectors from a dedicated power supply. Only then does the mic-level signal appear at a standard three-pin XLR connector. Transistorized microphones require much less power and can operate from a battery, hence the idea for phantom power, a system of distributing a DC voltage through a standard mic cable. All condenser mics (except electrets) requires a fairly large, but low current DC polarizing voltage that is applied to a diaphragm — similar to a drum head, but thinner and plated with a molecularly thin conductive layer that is typically gold. The signal is not strong enough to venture into the outside world without an internal buffer / preamp (active electronics) that also requires power.

A BALANCED BREAKFAST

Compared to both consumer (-10dBV) and professional (+4dBu) Line levels, Microphones produce a signal that can be considerably lower in level, hence the need for an external preamplifier. Every precaution is taken to minimize noise. By design, this begins with using two wires for the signal — referred to as "balanced" — plus a shield. Contrast this with a passive electric guitar — that is, one with no active internal electronics (i.e., a battery is required). A guitar cable uses a single conductor plus a shield, an unbalanced signal.

PHANTOM POWER: First you see it, then you don't

The rear of a Female XLR is shown in Figure One with a Red wire on Pin-2 and a Black wire on Pin-3. Pin-1 is called "ground" and the reference to terra firma implies that the metal body of the mic will ultimately connect to the "earth" and is therefore safe to touch even if you are barefoot in a pool of water (the Green wire). A good ground connection also improves noise immunity.


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Phantom Power Explained
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Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Six Essential Mixing Tips

Six Essential Mixing Tips
Wednesday, June 1st, 2011

Below I’ve compiled some of my favorite tips that have helped me over the years on the path of learn to mix. I swear by them and guarantee they will help your home studio productions.

For a less cluttered mix, use hipass and lowpass filters to better define the range of each instrument. The free BX_Cleansweep plugin will be your new best friend.

Automate everything. With the powerful automation functions available in your DAW there’s no reason to set levels to be just “good enough” for the whole song. Fine tune balances for every section, phrase or syllable if you have to. Same goes for sends and effects.

Left, Right, or Center. Nearly every element of your song can be assigned to one of those 3 panning positions. Don’t fret about finding the perfect pan position for every instrument, or try to make it completely lifelike. Anything other than hard left or right and center will translate differently on every system. You can save those in-between positions for a few select elements.

Take breaks to rest your ears and reset your perspective. Mixing is hard work, every couple hours you need to stop, relax and refresh your body. Interruptions and distractions don’t count as breaks.

All edits completed first. Drum editing, vocal comping and tuning, pocketing bass to kick drum. Those things should be taken care of before the mix stage otherwise you will not be able to develop and maintain a creative flow for the mix.

Experiment. Skip the presets and what seemed to work last time. Take things to the extreme, make things distort, use guitar effects for vocals. Try out all your tools and see what makes them break. Just have fun with it. On your way you will find some unique sounds that can only be found by avoiding the presets.
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Saturday, November 12, 2011

Acoustic Treatment vs. Digital Room Correction | Home Studio Corner

A while back I had the pleasure of attending a seminar given by Gavin Haverstick
of Haverstick Designs. The topic of the seminar was how to measure the acoustic issues of your room. He talked about various measurement techniques and devices.

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Acoustic Treatment vs. Digital Room Correction | Home Studio Corner
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Saturday, September 24, 2011

Make a Sound Studio in Your Apartment - Wired How-To Wiki

Make a Sound Studio in Your Apartment - Wired How-To Wiki
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Thursday, April 14, 2011

The Tale Of A Project-Saving Monitoring Technique - Pro Sound Web

Recording: Mounting The Insurmountable: The Tale Of A Project-Saving Monitoring Technique - Pro Sound Web
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Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Recording: Behind The Glass: The Wall Of Sound Deconstructed - Pro Sound Web

Recording: Behind The Glass: The Wall Of Sound Deconstructed - Pro Sound Web
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The “L” Word - Latency & Digital Audio Systems: Opening Pandora’s Box? - Pro Sound Web

AV: The “L” Word - Latency & Digital Audio Systems: Opening Pandora’s Box? - Pro Sound Web
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Tuesday, April 5, 2011

AV: Signal Processing Fundamentals: Passive & Active Crossovers - Pro Sound Web

AV: Signal Processing Fundamentals: Passive & Active Crossovers - Pro Sound Web
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Monday, April 4, 2011

The Evolution Of Digital Audio Technology To Now & The Next Generation - Pro Sound Web

AV: The Evolution Of Digital Audio Technology To Now & The Next Generation - Pro Sound Web
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How Microphones Work

How Microphones Work
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Independent Musicians on the Internet


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